Back to Salzkammergut
Back to Salzkammergut
After visiting Salzkammergut last year, it was clear that we would return. This time, we had three days of fishing ahead of us, a base in Bad Ischl, and several waters we wanted to explore again. Some were familiar. Some were not. As usual, we had a plan. And as usual, during the first two days it became clear that the plan and reality were two different things.
TL;DR
Three days of fly fishing in Austria’s Salzkammergut
A return to the familiar Rettenbach and an unexpected change of plan
Searching for new water away from the main fishing grounds
A rainy day on the Koppentraun
Why we will want to return
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Bad Ischl Base
The alarm went off at 4 a.m. The Sunday drive from Prague was surprisingly quick. Apart from one stop to buy an Austrian motorway vignette, we drove practically non-stop and arrived in Bad Ischl shortly after eight in the morning. This time, we stayed at Apartment 11. An unassuming apartment a few minutes from the water. Nothing luxurious, but exactly what you need on a trip like this. Parking directly beneath the windows, a ground-floor apartment, and a well-equipped kitchen. The rods, waders, and the rest of our gear went straight from the car inside. We had three days of fishing ahead of us. The biggest question was not the water, but the permits. We had Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday to fish and several options for how to arrange the individual days. In the end, we started where we knew it best.
Rettenbach I
Our first stop was Rettenbach I. We have written about this water before. A narrow mountain stream hidden among the trees, plenty of fish, and water that looks different around every bend. That is precisely why you enjoy returning here. We spent the first day mainly in familiar spots. After the long drive, there was no reason to rush anywhere. Instead, we reacquainted ourselves with the individual stretches.
Rettenbach II
In the afternoon, we went to take a look at Rettenbach II. The road runs for several kilometres along the river to Gasthaus Rettenbachalm, where there is a small car park that also serves as the starting point for the upper section of the fishing grounds. Suddenly, everything changes. Meadows, cows, forest, and a narrow mountain stream that seems to share nothing with the lower section of the Rettenbach except its name. We had a drink, walked around the area, and simply sat outside for a while. If you are ever nearby, it is worth stopping here even without a rod. The whole place feels like a small mountain oasis. This was where we were supposed to fish the next day.
Road Closed
On the morning of the second day, we got into the car and headed back up. Within a few minutes, our plan was over. The road was closed for repairs and, according to the information board, was supposed to remain closed all week. Rettenbach II was out of the question. We thought for a while about what to do next. In the end, all it took was one phone call to Hurch. We explained the situation and changed our permit back to Rettenbach I without any problems. In the end, it may have worked out better than we expected.
On the first day, we had not managed to explore the upper section above the bridge. That was exactly where we headed. About a kilometre upstream, we came across one of the largest pools on the entire river. A large number of fish were visible from the bank, and the whole place felt completely different from the lower section of the fishing grounds. Beyond the pool, the water cut between rock walls. In places, the banks were so steep that going any farther was practically impossible.
The dry fly did not work particularly well this time. Most of the fish were caught on nymphs and natural patterns. Once again, we were surprised by how well larger flies work here. The fish in these waters are nowhere near as cautious as those in many Czech rivers. In the afternoon, we moved back below the bridge, where there are several beautiful long runs and shallower stretches. This was where we stayed until the evening.
Looking for Something Different
After two days on the Rettenbach, it was time to decide where to go next. We know Hurch’s fishing grounds fairly well. We wrote about them after our previous visit, and we still believe they are among the best options in the area. They are well organised, permits are easy to arrange, and most of the waters are easily accessible by car. But this time, that was precisely the problem. We did not want the easy option. We were looking for new water. Fewer roads. Fewer people. More walking. So that evening, we sat over a map and searched for something we did not yet know. Eventually, we settled on the Koppentraun. Permits are sold at Gasthof Staud'nwirt in Bad Aussee, from where the fishing grounds are only a few minutes away by car. It was not the easiest choice. And that was precisely why it appealed to us
Rainy Day
Tuesday brought rain. Not heavy rain. More the kind of weather you expect in the mountains. Low clouds, occasional showers, and light that gave the entire landscape a completely different atmosphere. We headed to Staud'nwirt in Bad Aussee to get our permit. A small family-run guesthouse, a restaurant, several pitches for camper vans, and the river directly behind the building. We arranged the permit within a few minutes and had our morning coffee on the terrace. If you are planning to fish around Bad Aussee, this is a good place to start.
Koppentraun
We arrived at the Koppentraun around noon. After two days on the Rettenbach, the river felt completely different. Wider water, stronger currents, and a more open landscape. Instead of a narrow mountain stream, you suddenly find yourself beside a river that lets you see much farther. This was where we found what we had been looking for. You have to walk to reach the interesting spots. This is not the kind of water where you can park beside every other pool. Perhaps that was precisely why we encountered very few people throughout the day. The rain came and went, but the conditions were excellent. The river had a beautiful colour, and every new bend offered something different. Long runs alternated with deeper holes and broad gravel bars. There is one thing we always enjoy about waters like these. You never know what you will find around the next bend. Sometimes interesting water. Sometimes a fish. And sometimes just another reason to keep going for a few hundred metres more. The Koppentraun made exactly the impression on us that we had hoped for.
Evening Session
To finish the day, we moved a little farther upstream from Eselsbach. Practically right below Staud'nwirt itself. After walking all day, it was the ideal end to the entire trip. The rain finally stopped, evening began to settle over the valley, and we spent the last few hours without moving around much. Just the water. A few fish. And silence. We missed out on Rettenbach II this time. But things like this are often precisely the reason why you return. And we will definitely return to Salzkammergut again. Hopefully, next time we will also fish the water that was within reach the entire time, but which we ultimately never managed to visit.
